The Call of the Wild

Foodie Heaven

 I find Viet food less flavourful overall than Thai and Cambodian. Healthy for sure but not the same use of spices. There are 5 distinct noodle regions in the country and specific foods are served with the different varieties. 

And yes, I have seen frog on a few menus. 

On Sunday, I found a mom and pop restaurant on Sunday (unless situated in a major hotel or resort, they're all mom and pops) that had a wider variety of choices. The "side" salad, which was huge had a vinaigrette that was divine. Subtle flavours dancing around on the palate. The lemongrass and slightly sweet chilli tofu dish with onions, carrots and cucumber was like opening a door of earthly delights. I mixed the rice with it and managed with chopsticks almost to the end and used a spoon to get the last little bits. And it didn't lay heavy in the stomach. I lingered over the meal for a good forty minutes just savouring the vibe. Including the beer and tip, it cost me $8.00. 

There were 4 English blokes sitting next to me - either side of 30. They all teach English in Hanoi and have been there between 2 and 10 years. They enjoy the ability to travel around this area of the world when not teaching. And came to Hoi An to celebrate the Lunar New Year. Now I had a devil of a time understanding them standing talking face to face with them - I'm not sure Henry Higgins could. So if you meet some Viets who sound like a combination of Liza Doolittle, Amy Winehouse, Adele, Michael Caine and Ho Chi Minh, these guys probably tutored them. 

The temp today (Monday) is 19, feels like 16 due to the brisk wind. So jeans and a hoody. It rained much of last night, but stopped in the early morning. I rode into the old city and logged almost 12 k walking. There are literally hundreds of restaurants, scads of shoe, leather, clothing, tailor, and trinket shops. More of the same. But the international crowds are so interesting - so many different languages, families (some with babes in arms) that the walk isn't necessarily about the shops, just the experience of wrapping oneself into a melange of cultures. 

I found a spot that has street food stalls under one roof. I ate a pork/noodle/greens dish and a mango salad, all prepped before my eyes, watching the mango being peeled - can you say fresh? Less than $5 total! The lady has 3 electric elements and one brazier and doesn't measure anything, just drizzles spices from a tray of spices in baggies. All the ingredients are on display. 

I asked if two gentlemen sitting beside me are brothers. They are. They came from France for a family reunion in Hoi An. It's becoming a destination for weddings and gatherings. Glad I'm here now before it becomes too popular. 

On the way back I took short cuts on the dikes  through the rice paddies. 

Dropped off at Justin the butcher to get a baguette for lunch tomorrow. He gave me a sample of his freshly spiced smoked duck to consider so I ordered that. He gave me a glass of white wine while I waited for the baguette as it is his birthday.  

Tomorrow is New Year's Eve. Justin and several other establishments I asked are open on New Year's Day - business as usual. Others have closed for the week. I'll try to brave the crowds in the old town tomorrow night for the celebrations.